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2017

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Saturday, 25 February 2017 19:00

Dimitris Katrivesis

"My concepts are the trends for the last 5 years in Greece and not only, that’s why they are so copied and that’s why until today they have such a success"

Dimitris Katrivesis culinary experience

 

 


-What is the idea behind  La Pantera Negra ? 

Speaking for La Pantera Negra was the moment to present something rock /loud/and tasty in a value for money format. I designed it as if it was my own house, like the restaurant I want to go, a big lounge and an open kitchen to share time over food with my friends.

 

-What  elements you are looking for a dish to have?

Surprise/freshness/best product/healthy/unique/with a story to say.

 

-Why chefs have crazy moments where temper reaches red?

It’s really complicate to explain it in a few lines:

Food is the centre of our lives and we view every plate that leaves our kitchen as a product that carries our signature heart and soul. Giving all of our passion to the food and been artists been impulsive  ,trying to control every second so everything to be perfect …we have moments of fully happiness and moments of fully  disaster …if you can’t stand the heat !…

 

-How do you spend your free time? 

Ride my Harley /aikido/ run/a lot of food trips with my wife

 

-How do you choose your kitchen brigade?

I don’t look that much the c.v’s that they send me. I look for good people to grow my family. I want to have ‘clean’ personalities willing to learn.

 

-At which place in a chef’s career you feel complete to manage people in the kitchen?

This comes with the years ,you start as an apprentice ,you continue as a commis de partier ,you learn how to be a chef de partier and with the years you become sous chef or chef de cuisine so it’s the natural order of things after years of practice and evolution to become a leader in a kitchen. It is the moment that you stop learning and you start giving your own vision on cooking, having your own way of doing things.

 

-All your concepts have not been the norm in dining. What makes you go for a niche market?

Allow me disagree with that. My concepts are the trends for the last 5 years in Greece and not only, that’s why they are so copied and that’s why until today they have such a success. Mistura is inside the Elouda beach hotel with a worldwide reputation .Inbi is one of the best Japanese restaurants in Europe. My street food pop up concepts are a blast in every event…Pantera Negra is a small project with a lot of heart in it, providing top quality and the results is the love of its clientele. Being avant guard sometimes it puts you in a place to create a concept for a niche market and when you open the way you don't know if you are right or wrong you just believe in yourself.

 

-Which one is your most difficult dish and why?

Tuna bone marrow because we can only make it when we have a tuna over 60 kg.

After we clean the tuna we take out the jelly marrow out of the tuna spine.

It gives us 4 portions out of a 60 kg tuna and only every 3 to 4 months 

Basically you can eat this plate in my restaurant only 3 times a year and only 4 portions first come… first served!

We serve it with ponzu masato, apple sphere and passion fruit 

 

-Where would you like to travel next?

Well the program for this year is heavy, next stop is Paris that I open my next restaurant, next is Konstantinoupoli! In September I will visit Peru where I have a presentation for Mistura.

 

-What are your favorite dishes that you eat when not at work?

I enjoy simple tasty food from bar buns in Yamtcha (Paris) to the best ceviche in Ceviche London or the best quinoa salad s\that my wife makes me every Sunday!!

 

-Do you have a favorite cocktail or spirit?

I don’t drink a lot but for sure I like to enjoy a good Japanese whisky or an X.O  Dominican rum .In La Pantera Negra we work now in a line of fermented cocktails with very surprising taste and very healthy , Masato is one of my favorites.

 

-Where next for gastronomy? What are the next trends in eating?

Well the food trends for 2017 are

1. The craft and the hand crafted products

2. Seaweeds are the new kale 

3. for sour healthy food and drinks

4. Waste not .recycle the food waste

5. in tradition we trust, know your roots 

6. the body in tune, choose which food is best for your body

7. the butcher to the table, perfect cut of meets direct to the josper and to your table

8. Ethnic food that…, Latin, exotic 

9. Jackfruit the new meat for vegans

10. smoke everything, from ceviche to cocktails and from steaks to desserts smoke, smoke, smoke.

11. nostalgia remix good old classics, revisit with modernity

 

-What are these words for you?

A. BALANCE…………………… healthy, kokumi the sixth taste, know what you eat

B. FEELING………..heart, soul, understanding 

C. MOVEMENT………energy, emotion, feeling 

D. SHAPE…………balance with the nature, emotion, unknown textures 

E. TEMPERATURE…………contrast, surprise

 


Bio

Dimitris Katrivesis started his culinary journey in hotels and restaurants in Greece and after in the Carnary Islands at a small Greek restaurant. Not long after he joins the team at El Bulli with Ferran Adria . He studies in Le Notre escuel de cuisine, Paris, the insides of pasrty work and  in 2006 in Tenerife he opens his first one man show restaurant Alkimia while a second restaurant Siphon, in 2007, presents a Greek modern cooking  a la minute. From there on he joins the team of Albert Raurich (ex El Buli) in Dos Palilos one star Michelin restaurant in Barcellona, specializing in innovative Asian Tapas and back to Sani Marina resort Greece for a couple of years, he leads the team of Sea you on a Japanese fusion cuisine. His need to search for more complexity takes him to join in Tokyo the Ryugin two star Michelin restaurant.

He then moved to London to complete his global research one Nikkei cuisine. He first presents the Nikkei cuisine in Athens, at the Oozora restaurant. In 2015 he takes the leadership of Cinco restaurant in Athens and he presents the JSP concept (Japan, Spain, Peru) an Avant Gard presentation of Nikei cuisine mixed with Spanish and Greek influences. The same year he opens and owes the brand Mistura, a restaurant with Nikkei flavors in Mykonos.  He is also the executive chef of Inbi restaurants. We met Dimitris in Athens, being the owner and  chef at his latest addition, the Peruvian fusion La Pantera Negra.

 


 

Editors note:
Dimitris Katrivesis, new generation Greek International Chef of distinction full of passion and anger to achieve and deliver!  He lays grand culinary stones next to the Parthenon for others to stand on and go further, just like his anscestors. Enjoy his work it’s worth it!
 
Published in Faces
Saturday, 25 February 2017 18:51

Kolokasi

Delicious poison

Once titled  ‘ Delicious poison’ the vegetable named for some reason ‘ Jerusalem artichoke’ ,although of Indian origin, and very particular to the Cypriot traditional dishes,  ‘Kolokasi’, contains a kind of acid that should it be consumed raw and in quantity it disperses this acid in the body and causes a heart attack!

However being  a vegetable with not a strong ‘personality’ it can be very versatile and can be adopted in many recipies and in combination with meat or fish it can be part of a great dish. In Cyprus, Sotira village in the red soil area, claims to be the main producing area on the island and has even formed a festival in the honor of Kolokasi, just any excuse to celebrate culture and has also formed a representative group promoting various recipie interpretation, some a little rudiculous and especially when suggested in cocktails!

But I would go ahead of my lines if I carry on, the reason why these words is to get to an Asian influenced recipie put together at home one cold day.

Ingredients

Freshly grated ginger

Finely chopped lemon grass

Finely chopped garlic

Chopped onions

Kolokasi

Fresh coriander leaves

 

And from there on add your choice as below

In an oiled wok , fry the garlic, ginger, and lemon grass, add the onion till soft, add the chopped kolokasi and stir fry for a good 7 minutes in high heat, then add coriander leaves. From here you may take  many directions………..

For example add some tomato puree and some vegetable stock, stir, season and cover to cook till soft  in  low heat or add some  curry powder and stock, a touch of yoghurt and fresh lime to end to an Asian origin or add some chopped tomatoes, turmeric, coconut cream but my best one was a red curry paste with coconut cream and chopped bananas, which went well with grilled fillets of Perch !Dare and enjoy diversity and many more!  

 

Published in Eats
Saturday, 25 February 2017 18:27

Orange Wine by George Loukakis

"It is not a wine made by oranges !It looks like wine gone off! But make sure you’re sitting down when you taste your first orange wine and you have erased the taste memory of any other wine. It tastes oxidized, like brazil nuts, sour apples, linseed oil, wood varnish, honey, juniper and more… !"
 
Editor’s notes

 

 


The orange myth by

George  Loukakis

 

1. The orange myth?

The orange myth advocates, of which I am one, but accept there are those less than convinced.

 

2. Is it true that people fed up with Merlot and easy wines prefer character and individuality?

Not particularly with the grape Merlot I would say, people nowadays they want to give a try on more diverse style of grapes and wines. Getting more open minded on taste.

 

3. How does it come to this color……production

White wines that are made like red in production. What it means? You leave the juice with the skins and seeds for up to a year. Maceration is holding like reds on higher temperatures and voila colour is gained. Ok for sure the vessel is important as well time to time. Clay amphoras or concrete tanks helping the game.

 

4. How does it pair?

Orange wines are bold on style, quite powerful. So they pair well with bolder dishes such as curry dishes, starch like ravioli.

 

5. Is orange wine close to vermouth if you add herbal bitters?

My personal opinion, no. Great Vermouths have more aromatic style of wines as a base product.

 

6. How can one fully appreciate orange wines?

To appreciate an Orange wine, treat as red wine. Higher serving temperature, I always like to decant them as well.
People that are not red wine drinkers will adore them

 


Born in Chania Greece from a Cypriot Mother, Sommelier George Loukakis is awarded  the Best Sommelier of Cyprus 2015, Master Sommelier Candidate and  is a WSET (Wine and Spirit Education Trust) Diploma Student currently serves as Group Sommelier for Columbia Restaurants in Cyprus.

 

Published in Booze
Saturday, 25 February 2017 16:33

Editor's Note

Well well !It’s food and drink!
 
The century of choice where the world of goods is at our disposal to mix and match, fuse and infuse, craft and recycle, preserve and ferment and all these sudden jargon to suit our genius creations. 
 
The century where we kill each other at war, we destruct human beings, we deny what  means 'right',  the politicians compete to a lying race, anyone and anything are called the government and so much ignorance as to what we do to mother Earth…all these issues…and what the hell is happening?
 
But on another note…. we all put a smile on our face through commercialism kicks and hiding behind technology we make the bars and cafes look busy,  the restaurants  springing like mushrooms and the ball is rolling in every direction! Hurry, hurry don’t miss out! There is effort, creativity and passion out there, just go out and suck it all in!
 
I’ve been called an 'attitudist' ! An eccentric and a very difficult person! Cheers to that! The answer is I have smoked a few good cigars in my life! I’ve tasted very old Armagnacs in underground cellars with some very grand people, you could never tell! 
 
So what is all this about? I’m an aristocratic gypsy, I’m a hacker looking for passion, attitude, eccentricity and difficulty. I love to find the small print into the little thought behind ,that is literally the importance!

 

Paris Christofides
Editor

www.speakeasyhacker.com 

 

P.S. I’m not a journalist or a writer but an 'attitudist'

 

Published in General
Saturday, 11 February 2017 16:47

Stephanos Athanasiou

Being boss, host, bartender, and a businessman/role playing…how do you apply yourself to these?

I have started working in hospitality from a very young age. I was lucky enough to work in all the positions. Now I’m in a situation where I can be grateful for all that I have learned and experienced. It doesn’t really feel like I am a  boss because I’m still operating in all the positions in a more effective way. I think that I have always been responsible in every position, despite the fact that lots of friends disagree on that! Most probably it is because I act in a very calm, effective and effortless manner! Shlllaaaaang!

 

 

Is a grand idea a fantasy or an unrealistic dream?

This question sounds like a cheesy soap opera!

Madame Bar is neither a grand idea nor a fantasy. It is not an unrealistic dream either. It is not science fiction, it is just an ORDINARY bar where different customers can find their own reasons to visit it. Madame Bar is a fact. It is an everyday bar where customers, guests and friends feel comfortable for either a casual evening with excellent drinks, food, music and good vibes, or for their special night out.

 It is not something that has being created by luck or a push from an external factor

 

 

People talk about your Dream team and their support to the concept?

We are a team who regularly talks, listens and exchanges different opinions with each other. We like to evolve and keep pushing, we are never laid back and we always strive to get fresher and fresher, better and better. The crew of Madame are handpicked and trained in a certain way.

In these two years of operation, we are almost the same crew as we were at the beginning, but now we also have new additions to the team, which is what we want. Although myself, my partners and the crew have been together for two years, the main feeling about Madame is that there is always room for improvements. We engage a specific style on operating things like a non smoking policy, signature food and cocktails and different styles of music, but all under the same aesthetics of Madame. I can happily say that lots of people share the same taste as us, but as is to be expected within this industry, they are also some who don’t.

That’s why we support and recognize other styles and tastes. It is always good to have a selection of things in our everyday life.

 

 

If you could change one thing in your professional cycle what would that be?

As I have said before I believe in constant evolution, development and review. This is also the same process that I apply in my personal life and my professional cycle.

I have studied hospitality by practice and have followed the right people at the right time. No I am finally in a position to be followed by others and share my knowledge, passion and experiences with them. I’m still keen on exploring and am very much open to new things. I desire to be surrounded by people with knowledge and passion and I use and filter their inspiration to suit my own standards. I would change nothing, everything has happened the way it has happened, for a reason and you become the result of these actions. This interview, for example, might be a reason for a rise or a fall.

Listen … if you start thinking “what if…” or “how might it have been…” you are doomed from that moment, once and for all.

 

What are the feelings from the perception of an idea to create a moment to its execution?

You might have a picture or a specific feeling in your head, as an artistic and creative personality and then you have the need to express it. This is where you need the talent to export it. In hospitality we are called to create an experience that combines lot’s of elements. The sense of taste, vision, sound and texture need to all be a perfect balance. Really hard work and struggle on fine tuning the details is key.

 

What goes on when you are surfing?

Surfing? Facebook work’s then! You are obviously talking about my annual headstand picture on the S.U.P, I’m a natural, I can only do that move and 360s on a large board. I love the sea and I couldn’t imagine myself living far from the coast.

 

When you are to create a drink list what parameters would you consider?

As far as the creation of a cocktail is concerned, the first rule is the quality of the ingredients and how you can balance them. After that, there is a small detail that I can’t share I’m afraid, because that detail leads to the success of any cocktail!

The A to Z of a cocktail is the balance of alcohol, sweetness, acidity and water and then to loose your imagination and create.  A Daiquiri for example, is rum based cocktail with sugar and freshly squeezed lime, a perfect cocktail to practice your mixology skill. If you understand those basic rules, then you are ready to create the nicest cocktails for you and your friends. They can be either classics or signatures. A basic thing to understand, is that there is a big difference in creating a cocktail for your friends at a cozy house party, and working behind a fast and demanding bar.

 

 

Give us some of your magical ingredient marriages that you think are unique.

To give you a marriage of magical ingredients, you need to come and work for me and earn it haaard. Some things might sound wow in a description full of rich syrups and sauces, with rare ingredients  like a tear drop of the lost princess and a hair of the mummy of Tutanhamun and after the first taste all the mystery and prrrrffftttt, KAPOUT. Deliver what you have promised man or keep it simple, we will still love you dude. (this goes for the fellow bartenders). And no I won’t give you any signature recipes, come to my bar and enjoy them!

 

What’s the best moment behind the bar for you?

On a daily shift lots of magic happens. The moment of preparation feels like meditation, a few minutes before the first customer arrives and then you have the performance. You never know who stands on the other side of the bar. You need to give your best smile and behavior and most importantly of all, to keep the balance, the balance on your drinks and balance between the customer and the bartender. Then, before you know it, it is the end of another night. While everybody is leaving you start the closing prep. I enjoy every moment behind the bar. it’s full of surprises from minute to minute. The people are making the night, the bartender is the fire starter.

 

Cyprus seems to be way up font in the world of bartending and cocktailing. What is your opinion and your future vision?

Cyprus bartending is way upfront in the world? Yes it is. Nice bars, best quality drinks, best equipment but my question is, have we yet found an identity? Is there a culture or is it the fashion? Wear a bow tie, a vest or a colorful apron with a tattoo sleeve and, yes, I’m a mixologist. I believe in the new comers. The economical crisis has brought to the business lots of people from different fields and that’s how our profession eventually gets the recognition it deserves. You are hooked, from the first after party as an insider with your new family.

 

Advising newcomers to this field what would be your most important message to them?

The newcomers, enjoy every minute, the experiences you gather in such a short time in the hospitality industry is priceless. You need double the time to get it from any other jobs. Finally you come to a state of being able to enjoy the simple things in life.

 

What drink would you pair with smoked herring and why?

Food paring is one of my favorite things. You can always pair your dinner the way you want it. But if you ever suggest it you better defend your opinion, just saying to someone “try it, it’s good”, doesn’t count anymore. Smoke herring? So powerful that the smell stays in your skin but, with a refreshing cocktail palleted on citrus notes and based on a spirit with intensive characteristics, there is a match. Paloma could be one of them. Tequila, lime and grapefruit soda, loose the salt from the rim because herring is salty enough. The acidity of the lime will wash the fattiness of the fish out and the bubbles of soda will freshen your pallet up. For similar reasons you could pair the herring with a chilled lager or a glass of champange. Champagne loves saltiness which helps to bring up all of its aromas and also its high acidity will freshen up your mouth. Another option could be a wine born next to the sea with high acids like Assyrtiko. I assume that could make a match. I also think that smoked herring would increase the rich flavors of a bloody Mary too.

 

Best slogan?    

Best slogan: we know who we are but we don’t take our self seriously.

I’ve said enough.

 


Stefanos Athanasiou is the Key person behind Μαντάμ bar in Limassol.

He has earned a place and has gained recognition within the hospitality industry and his opinion is greatly valued.

He has created respected work in the past, by aiding in the development of bars and the concepts behind them, but now he is a part of a fresh, new concept in Limassol – Madame bar. This is where he applies his huge range of creativity and constant development.

 

Published in Faces
Saturday, 11 February 2017 15:27

Clear as rainy water

A quest to redefine vodka

‘Made by one of Europe’s biggest ‘blend rockstar’ Thomas Kuuttanen, this Vodka embodies the name that it goes by. Coming from Sweden the distillery location is a 13th century Ellinge castle. Thomas's team engineered a special copper-golden pot still just for making Vodka. They source the raw ingredients - winter wheat & barley - directly from the estate surroundings. Then they distill the liquid 34 times! 

 

During the thirty-four distillations, ninety percent of the liquid is lost and only the "perfect cut" is selected as the heart of Purity Vodka. This final spirit, reaching 96% vol. (192 Proof), is so refined that no filtration is necessary, thus leaving all the natural flavors and character in the vodka. The refined spirit is then carefully reduced by using a mix of deionied water and natural, mineral rich water, and blended with tailor made organic column spirits which are made from the very finest wheat. "Small-batch distillation in a pot still results in an astonishingly smooth vodka loaded with character. Its oily texture is dominated by minerals and umami, backed up by delicate tones of white chocolate, vanilla and liquorice.

 

 


Tasting Notes

Appearance / Colour Clear purity.
Smell / Nose Neutral, smooth and creamy. Notes of pepper and grass.
Taste / Palate Flavors of cream and vanilla combine with hints of and almond.
Finish Dry, long and pleasant finish without any burn to it.
Flaviar Spiral Wheat, Barley, Fruit, Fresh, Lemon, Creamy, Pepper, Lime, Smooth, Lychee, Sour, Rich, Sugar, Grain.

 

Daring to stand out from the crowded cluster of neutral, mainstream vodkas, Purity Vodka has not been made to please everyone. It is full-bodied, complex and loaded with character yet, smooth and sophisticated.  

 


Vodka Compare by Drinkhacker

Purity vs Grey Goose

Grey Goose - Slightly sweet, with lemongrass notes, both on the nose and the palate. The body offers touches of pepper, with a warming, soothing finish. The slightly syrupy, overblown texture is the only drawback here, as it just so slightly coats the mouth when it should be cleansing. Overall it’s completely drinkable and versatile. 

Purity - Significantly less character — much, much cleaner and more neutral. There’s more of an eastern European feel to this, with a light medicinality and more pepper on the back end. As with Vodka A, there’s a subtle lemon character, which comes along with time in the glass and exposure to air. A very good vodka, but the lighter body, which is mouth cleansing instead of coating, makes it not just a good mixer but a good choice for sipping straight.

 


 

Editor’s Vodka comparison notes

Spherical blind tasting from Drinkhacker ! Let’s not mistake the subtle character of a refine ‘Eau de vie’ that Purity portraits, all in all in what makes a vodka relevant to sipping enjoyment. Indeed it rinses the mouth and does not coat it, with an after taste of fresh lemon, liquoriche, cream, sweet and salt the same time but most of all…pure smooth !

 

Published in Booze

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